Tenoning Jig (Model 34-183) REVISED 5-28-99 PART NO. 1342471 Delta International Machinery Corp. 1999 INTRODUCTION Your new 34-183 Tenoning Jig will help you produce good, strong joints. There are many methods to join pieces of wood together, but the classic mortise-and-tenon joint is one of the strongest and most widely used joints in woodworking. The strength of this joint comes from the proportions of the mating parts and from their close mechanical fit, which all form a good glue bond. SAFETY RULES ALWAYS wear eye protection. 2. MAKE CERTAIN workpiece is securely damped in place and all locking handles are properly tightened before operating. 3. MAKE SURE machine power is off and blade is stopped before attempting adjustments to jig or workpiece. 4. KEEP both hands on operating handles provided when processing work material. 5. REMOVE ADJUSTING KEYS AND WRENCHES. Form habit of checking to see that keys and adjusting wrenches are removed from tool before operating. Cluttered areas and 6. KEEP WORK AREA CLEAN. benches invite accidents. 7. DON'T FORCE TOOL. It will do the job better and be safer at the rate for which it was designed. 8. USE RIGHT TOOL. Don't force tool or attachment to do a job for which it was not designed. 9. WEAR PROPER APPAREL. No loose clothing, gloves, neckties, rings, bracelets, or other jewelry to get caught in moving parts. Nonslip footwear is recommended. Wear protective hair covering to contain long hair. 10. ALWAYS USE SAFETY GLASSES. Wear safety glasses (must comply with ANSI Z87.1). Everyday eyeglasses only have impact resistent lenses; they aren't safety glasses. Also use face or dust mask if cutting operation is dusty. 11. DON'T OVERREACH. Keepproperfooting and balance at all times. 12. ALWAYS replace blade guard of saw when finished using the tenoning jig. UNPACKING Carefully unpack the Tenoning Jig and all loose items. Fig. 2, illustrates all items supplied with the Tenoning Jig. 1 - Base and Vertical Work Support Assembly 2 - Clamp Assembly 3 - M8 Flat Washer 4 - M8 x 50mm Socket Head Screw 5 - Clamp Arm 6 - M10 Lockwasher 7 - M10x25mm Socket Head Screw 8 - M10x20mm Socket Head Screw 9 - Handles 10 - 2.5mm Allen Wrench 11 - 3mm Allen Wrench 12 - 4mm Allen Wrench 13 - 6mm Allen Wrench 14 - 8mm Allen Wrench Fig. 2 ASSEMBLY WARNING: DISCONNECT SAW FROM THE POWER SOURCE. 1. Fasten clamp arm (A) Fig. 3, to the back of the work support plate using the M10 x 25mm socket head screw (B), M10 x 20mm socket head screw (X), and lockwashers as shown. 2. Fasten clamp assembly (C) Fig. 4, to clamp arm (A) using the M8 x 50mm socket head screw (D) and flat washer (E), as shown. 3. Fasten handles (F) Fig. 4, to clamp arm (A) and base (H) as shown. 4. IMPORTANT: The guide bar (G) Fig. 4, located on the base (H) of the tenoning jig, has been preset at the factory for operation on right tilting arbor saws. If you are using the tenoning jig on a right tilting arbor saw, proceed with instructions for "ALIGNING TENONING JIG". If you are using the tenoning jig on a left tilting arbor saw, the guide bar (G) Fig. 4, must be relocated on the base (H) of the tenoning jig, as follows: Fig_ Fig. FOR LEFT TILTING ARBOR SAWS ONLY 5. Loosen small lock handle (J) Fig. 5. Loosen and remove large lock handle (K) and flat washer (L) Fig. 5, from tenoning jig. NOTE: Each lock handle (J) and (K) Fig. 5, is spring-loaded and can be repositioned by pulling out on the handle and repositioning it on the nut located underneath the handle. 6. Using a 3mm alien wrench, loosen set screw (M) Fig. 6, and remove micro-adjustment assembly (N) from tenoning jig as shown in Fig. 7. Fig. 6 Fig. 7 7. Lift jig assembly (P) Fig. 8, from base (H). Loosen and remove two button head screws and flat washers (R) from base. 8. Slide base (H) Fig. 9, forward until two holes (S) are aligned with holes in guide bar (G). Fasten base to guide bar with two button head screws and flat washers (R) as shown in Fig. 10. Fig. 9. Reassemble items that were removed in STEPS 4, 5, and 6 in reverse order. Fig. 11, illustrates the tenoning jig reassembled for operation on a left tilting arbor saw. Fig. 11 ADJUSTING GUIDE BAR TO TABLE SLOT DISCONNECT SAW FROM POWER SOURCE. 1. The tenoning jig is furnished with an adjustable guide bar (A) Fig. 12, which allows the jig to be custom-fit to your saw, eliminating any side-to-side play. Also, there is a T-slot washer (B) on each end of the guide bar (A) to keep the tenoning jig from lifting during operation. NOTE: Tslot washers (B) need to be removed if your table saw is not equipped with T-slotted miter gage slots. 2. Place tenoning jig guide bar (A) Fig. 13, into left miter slot (D) of machine as shown and slide miter gage back and forth to determine if there is any side-to-side play. If there is no side-to-side play and the tenoning jig slides easily through the miter slot of the machine, no adjustment is necessary; however, if the tenoning jig fits too snugly, or if there is excessive play between the guide bar (A), and miter slot (D) of the machine, proceed as follows: 3. Remove tenoning jig from machine and place it upside down as shown in Fig. 12. 4. Using the 2.5mm alien wrench (not shown) adjust screws (C) Fig. 3, clockwise to eliminate play, or counterclockwise to provide a looser fit between the guide bar (A) Fig. 13, and miter slot (D). Then insert the tenoning jig back into the miter slot of the machine and determine that fit is suitable, or if further adjustments ape required. ALIGNING TENONING JIG DISCONNECT SAW FROM/POWER SOURCE. 1. Place the tenoning jig guide bar (A) Fig. 13, into the left miter gage slot. 2. Using a square (E) Fig. 13, check to see if the vertical work support plate (F) is 90 degrees to the saw table. If an adjustment is necessary, loosen lock handle (G), move vertical work support plate (F) until it is 90 degrees to the table and tighten lock handle (G). NOTE: Lock handle (G) is spring-loaded and can be repositioned by pulling out on the handle and repositioning it on the nut located underneath the handle. 3. With the vertical work support plate (F) Fig. 14, adjusted at 90 degrees to the table, tighten set screw (H) until it bottoms. This positive stop set screw (H) enables you to rapidly position the vertical work support (F) 90 degrees to the table after it has been tilted. 4. Using square (E) Fig. 15, check to see if the face of the backstop (J) is 90 degrees to the saw table. If an adjustment is necessary, loosen lock lever (K), adjust backstop (J) accordingly and tighten lever (K). NOTE: Lock lever (K) is spring-loaded and can be repositioned by pulling out on the handle and repositioning it on the nut located underneath the handle. «¦¦ Fig. 12 y Fig. 13 Fig. 15 5. Loosen nut (L) Fig. 16, and turn set screw (M) counterclockwise two or three times. 6. Loosen two lock levers (N) and (P) Fig. 17, and move jig (R) until vertical work support plate (F) is against saw blade and tighten lever (N). NOTE: Lock levers (N) and (P) are spring-loaded and can be repositioned by pulling up on the handles and repositioning them on the nut located under-neath the handles. 7. Check to see if the vertical work support plate (F) Fig. 17, is parallel with the saw blade. 8. If an adjustment is necessary, loosen lever (N) Fig. 17, and rotate knob (S), clockwise as far as possible to align holes (T) with guide bar (X) and gain access to set screws. Loosen two screws inside holes (T) and move jig (R) until vertical work support plate (F) is parallel with the saw blade. Then tighten the two screws inside holes (T). 9. Move jig (R) Fig. 17, 1/8" away from blade so vertical work support plate (F) clears saw blade; tighten lever (N). 10. Rotate knob (S) Fig. 17, counterclockwise until collar (V) is halfway between knob (S) and side of jig (R); tighten lever (P). 11. Turn screw (M) Fig. 18, clockwise until it bottoms. This prevents the vertical work support plate (F) from accidentally being moved into the blade; tighten nut (L). 12. Loosen screw (Y) Fig. 19, and adjust pointer (Z) to the '0" mark on scale. Fig. 19 ADJUSTMENTS WARNING: DISCONNECT SAW FROM POWER SOURCE. 1. For rapid adjustment of the work support plate (A) Fig. 20, toward or away from the saw blade, loosen levers (B) and (C) and move jig (D) as necessary. Tighten levers (B) and (C) after rapid adjustment is made. 2. Fine adjustment of the work support plate (A) Fig. 20, can be accomplished by loosening lever (B) and rotating knob (E) until plate (A) is at the desired position. Tighten lever (B) Fig. 20, afteriine adjustment is made. 3. To tilt the vertical work support plate (A) Fig. 20, loosen lock lever (F), tilt vertical work support plate to the desired angle and tighten lock lever (F). Fig. 20 4. To adjust backstop (G) Fig. 21, for angle tenons, loosen lock lever (H), adjust backstop (G) to the desired angle and tighten lever (H). 5. IMPORTANT: THE TENONING JIG IS NOT EQUIPPED WITH A BEVEL SCALE FOR THE POSITIONING OF BACKSTOP (G) FIG. 21, OR SUPPORT PLATE (A) FIG. 20, FOR THE DESIRED ANGLE OF THE WORK PIECE SHOULD BE CUT PRIOR TO THE SET UP OF THE JIG. 6. The tenoning jig features a positive stop to ensure fast and accurate positioning of the backstop (G) Fig. 21, at 90 degrees to the saw table. To check and adjust the positive stop at 90 degrees, loosen lock handle (H) Fig. 22, and place one end of a combination square (J) on the saw table and the other end against backstop (G). Check to see if the backstop is at 90 degrees to the saw table. If an adjustment is necessary, loosen locknut (K) Fig. 22, and tighten or loosen adjustment screw (L) until head of screw contacts the casting on vertical plate (M) at 90 degrees. Tighten locknut (K) and lock handle (H) after adjustment is made. Fig. 21 Fig. 22 To eliminate chip-out of the workpiece when performing cheek cuts, an auxiliary wooden backup board can be fastened to the backstop (G) Fig. 23, with two wood screws through the two pre-drilled holes (N). Fig. 24 illustrates a backup board (P) fastened to the backstop. A block of wood may also be fastened to the vertical support plate (R) Fig. 24, through four pre-drilled holes (S) to prevent the saw blade from contacting the jig in certain setups. OPERATION This jig is intended to perform the cheek cuts of the tenon only. The cheek cuts are usually performed before the shoulder cuts, which are usually cut on a table saw using the miter gage. DISCONNECT SAW FROM POWER SOURCE. ANATOMY OF A MORTISE AND TENON JOINT Fig. 25, illustrates the parts of a simple or "blind" mortise and tenon joint. A. Structural Shoulder B. Cheek C. Cosmetic Shoulder D. Mortise E. Mortise Walls Start by laying out the mortise and tenon onto the workpieces a shown in Fig. 26, but keep the following items in consideration when laying out the joints: To avoid premature joint failure, avoid locating a tenon in a disfigured part of the grain such as a knot, for unpredictable movement of the joint may occur. Always use straight, flat, common-grained stock as shown in Fig. 25. The tenon will shrink in width, away from the mortise walls, possibly revealing the mortised hole; therefore, when possible, tenons should have shoulders on all four sides, two structural and two cosmetic, to conceal the mortised hole when wood movement occurs. See Fig. 26. Fig. 26 1/4" If 1/2" 1/4" The objective when making a mortise-and-tenon joint is to make the parts fit closely together, and maximize the gluing surface by making the tenon as long as possible, approximately 1/2 the width of the stile, or longer if using narrow stock. Balance the joint by making sure there is the same amount of wood in the tenon as there is in the combined thickness of the mortise walls; example shown in Fig. 27. If one piece of wood is larger than the other, make the tenon as thick as possible. See Fig. 28. Remember to figure in the width of the saw blade when setting up for the cut. Cut all mortises first, making the mortise 1/16" deeper than thre length of the tenon to allow for squeezed glue. Fig. 27 Fig. 28 There are several methods in which a mortise-and-tenon can be cut. The following information illustrates one of the easiest and safest methods. This method requires the cheek cuts to be made first, then the shoulder cuts are performed. A base stop (F) Fig. 29, which is the same thickness as the base plate (G) of the tenon jig (H), and spacer block (K), which is equal to the combined thickness of the tenon and the saw blade, will be used to make cutting more efficient. This method of cutting eliminates any possible errors which may occur due to thickness variations in the material, and avoids trapping the cutoff pieces between the saw blade and vertical support plate (N). NOTE: IT IS ADVISABLE TO PERFORM CUTS ON PRACTICE MATERIAL FIRST BEFORE CUTTING THE GOOD WORK PIECES. WARNING: When performing cuts with this tenon jig, a slow feed rate is suggested to eliminate the tenon jig from lifting during a cut. 1. Clamp a base stop (F) Fig. 29, which is the same thickness as the base plate (G) of the tenon jig (H), onto the front of the saw table as shown, so the tenon jig can pass over the base stop (F) without contacting it. 2. Fabricate a spacer block of wood (K) Fig. 29, equal to the thickness of the tenon plus the thickness of the saw blade. 3. With the tenon jig (H) Fig. 29, located at the front of saw table and over base stop (F), load the spacer block (K) and workpiece (L) and securely clarjip in place by turning clamp handle (M), making certain both pieces of wood are against vertical support plate (N) and backup board (P) as shown. 4. Gently push tenon jig (H) Fig. 29, toward saw blade until work piece is near the saw blade. Adjust tenon jig (H) and saw blade so the first cheek cut can be made. Then return the tenon jig (H) to the front of saw table. Fig. 29 5. Connect saw to power source. 6. Turn saw on and perform the first structural cheek cut as shown in Fig. 30, by feeding the tenon jig toward the saw blade at a slow feed rate until the saw blade has exited out of the back of the tenon jig. Then slowly pull tenon jig back to the position shown in Fig. 29, and turn saw off. 7. Loosen clamp (M) Fig. 29, remove spacer block (K), and secure workpiece (L) Fig. 31, in place as shown, keeping the same face of workpiece (L) against vertical support plate (N) and backup board (P), and the workpiece is properly spaced up from the saw table as shown. Then turn saw on, perform the second structural cheek cut as shown, and slowly pull tenon jig back to the position shown in Fig. 29, and turn saw off. DISCONNECT SAW FROM POWER SOURCE. 8. Load and secure the workpiece (L) Fig. 32, onto the tenon jig as shown and adjust the tenon jig to perform the third and fourth cosmetic cheek cuts. Connect saw to power source, turn saw on, and perform the cosmetic cheek cuts in the same manner the structural cheek cuts were made. NOTE: When cutting the cosmetic cheek cuts, the spacer block (K) Fig. 29, does not need to be used. The workpiece can be turned 180 degrees, forthe discrepancies in the material are not as critical when cutting the cosmetic cheeks compared to the structural cheeks. CUTTING THE SHOULDERS OF THE TENON DISCONNECT SAW FROM POWER SOURCE. WARNING: TO AVOID PERSONAL INJURY OR DAMAGE TO THE MACHINE, ALWAYS USE A CROSS-CUT BLADE TO PERFORM THE SHOULDER CUTS OF THE TENON. CAUTION: WHEN PERFORMING THE SHOULDER CUTS OF THE TENON, DO NOT CUT INTO THE CHEEKS OF THE TENON, FOR IT WILL GREATLY REDUCE THE STRENGTH OF THE JOINT. NOTE: IT IS ADVISABLE TO PERFORM CUTS ON PRACTICE MATERIAL FIRST BEFORE CUTTING THE GOOD WORKPIECES. 9. Remove tenon jig from saw table. 10. Lay the workpiece (L) Fig. 33, onto the saw table as shown and adjust saw blade (R) to cut the structural shoulders of the tenon, as shown. 10 Fig. 33 11. Clamp a wooden stop block (S) Fig. 34, to the front of the saw fence (T) as shown, and adjust the saw fence to cut the structural shoulders of the tenon. NOTE: Remember to figure in the width of the saw blade. WARNING: Always position wooden stop block (S) Fig. 34, in front of the saw blade so the workpiece cannot be trapped between the saw fence and saw blade to avoid kickback. The piece of material being cut must be past the wooden stop block (S) before contacting the saw blade. 12. Using a miter gage (W) Fig. 34, equipped with a backup board (X), position the workpiece (L) so the structural shoulders can be cut as shown. Make certain the workpiece (L) is against wooden stop block (S) and backup board (X) as shown. 13. Connect saw to the power source. 14. Turn the saw on and perform the structural shoulder cut by slowly pushing the miter gage (W) Fig. 34, toward the saw blade as shown until the saw blade has exited out the rear of the miter gage as shown in Fig. 35. Then turn saw off, and remove cut-off piece once the saw blade has come to a complete stop. 15. Return miter gage (W) Fig. 34, to the position shown, and perform the other structural shoulder cut in the same manner. 16. Fig. 36, illustrates workpiece (L) with the two structural shoulders cut. DISCONNECT SAW FROM POWER SOURCE. 17. Readjust the saw blade height to perform the cosmetic shoulder cuts, connect saw to power source, and perform the cosmetic shoulder cuts in the same manner in which the structural shoulder cuts were made. CAUTION: WHEN PERFORMING THE SHOULDER CUTS OF THE TENON, DO NOT CUT INTO THE CHEEKS OF THE TENON, FOR IT WILL GREATLY REDUCE THE STRENGTH OF THE JOINT. 18. Fig. 37, illustrates a simple, or "blind" mortise-and- tenon joint. Fig. 34 11 Fig. 37 EXAMPLES OF MORTISE-AND-TENON JOINTS Fig. 38 Fig. 38, illustrates an open mortise-and-tenon joint. Fig. 39 Fig. 39, illustrates a mitered mortise-and-tenon joint. 12 HAUNCHED TENON CONCEALED HAUNCHED TENON MITERED TENON TENON ENDS MITERED SAW CUTS THROUGH-WEDGED TENON SIMPLE MORTISE AND TENON BARE FACED TENON MORTISE CHEEK OF TENON SHOULDER OF TENON 13 BLIND-WEDGED TENON SPLINE GROOVE (SINGLE SAWCUT) MORTISE AND TENON WITH SPLINES TENON WITH LONG AND SHORT SHOULDERS RABBET STUB TENON 14 OPEN MORTISE TENON REPLACEMENT PARTS 34-182 & 34-183 TENONING JIG J4C SEE, PART description S^ PART NO. NUMBER P55CRIPHPN NO. NUMBER 1 1345960 LOCK LEVER 34C 901-02-030-5750 2 1243526 (DIN 125) M8.4 FLAT WASHER 35 1345957 3 1345961 STUD 36 1243561 4 1345959 LOCK LEVER 36A 1246100 5 1246140 (DIN 125) M6.4 FLAT WASHER 37 1243360 6 1345958 LOCK BUSHING 38 1345973 7 1345957 HANDLE 39 1345984 8 1345951 KNOB 40 1310016 9 1246184 (DIN 1481) M3X20MM SPRING PIN 41 905-01-010-5091 10 1345952 BUSHING 42 1345969 11 1345953 BRACKET 43 1345971 12 1243321 (DIN916)M6X 10MM HEX SOC SET SCR 44 1246006 13 1345954 NYLON WASHER 45 1345970 14 1345955 (DIN 936) M10 HEX LOW NUT 46 1310153 15 1345956 SHAFT 47 1243339 16 1345977 GUIDE BUSHING 48 1345968 17 1345976 GUIDE ROD 49 1345962 18 1345979 (DIN 913) M6 X 45MM HEX SOC SET SCR 49A 1345597 19 1345980 (DIN 936) M6 HEX LOW NUT 50 1246140 20 1345978 SLIDE 51 1345965 21 1345964 SCALE 52 1345985 22 1343053 M5 X 10MM PAN HD SCR 53 1310016 23 1345962 LOCK LEVER 54 1345972 24 1246140 (DIN 125) M6.4 FLATWASHER 55 1246124 25 1345963 BRACKET 56 1246140 26 1345981 BUSHING 57 1345966 27 1243398 (DIN 934) M8 HEX NUT 57A 1243395 28 1310159 (DIN 85) M4 X 6MM PAN HD SCR 57B 1344042 29 1345982 POINTER 58 1342697 30 1345983 (DIN 7380) M6 X 20MM BUTTON HD SCR 59 1345967 31 1243520 (DIN 7980) M6.1 LOCK WASHER 59A 1341438 32 1345974 BASE 65 428-06-101-0002 33 1246015 (DIN 933) M6 X 20MM HEX HD SCR 66 422-29-101-0002 34 1345975 GUIDE BAR 67 428-07-101-0002 34A 1343670 SPECIAL SCR (SEE NOTE A) 68 422-30-101-0002 34B 422-04-072-0001 PLATE (SEE NO TE A) 69 428-06-101-0003 DESCRIPTION 1/4-28 X 5/16" FLAT HD SCR (SEE NOTE / HANDLE (DIN912)M10X25lV1MHEXSOC HD SCR (DIN 912) M10 X 20MM HEX SOC HD SCR (DIN 7980) M10.2 LOCK WASHER CLAMP BRACKET WARNING LABEL 5MM DRIVE SCR 3/8" X 2" SPRING PIN CLAMP ARM M8 FLATWASHER (DIN 912) M8 X 50MM HEX SOC HD SCR HANDLE ASSY, INCL: (DIN 84) M6 X 55MM CHEESE HD SfcR (DIN 916) M6 X 8MM HEX SOC SET SCR CLAMP SCR LOCK LEVER SPACER (DIN 125) M6.4 FLAT WASHER VERTICAL TABLE NAMEPLATE 5MM DRIVE SCR SPECIAL SCR (DIN 916) M6 X 25MM HEX SOC SET SCR (DIN 125) M6.4 FLATWASHER STOP (DIN 934) M5 HEX NUT (DIN 913) M5 X 20MM HEX SOC SET SCR M6 SQUARE NUT SPECIAL SCR (DIN 137B) M6.4 WAVE WASHER 3MM HEX WRENCH 4MM HEX WRENCH 6MM HEX WRENCH 8MM HEX WRENCH 2 5MM HEX WRENCH NOTE A: for model 34-183 only; 15